Home Inspection

Introduction.

This manual is designed to educate property owners/rehabiltiation clients about (1) inspection property for problems, (2) primary construction components and materials (3) troubleshooting- potential problems and (4) solutions for every area of the project that may need improvement. This manual can also make the potential owner aware of problems that could eventually arise in a home.

For an explanation of terms, please refer to the glossary. If you are looking for a detailed list of items to assess your home with, refer to the checklist.

Each of the following subjects will:

• assist with identifying the positive qualities of the property you are inspecting.
• provide general maintenance tips and ways to prevent problems before they occur (to help you avoid high-cost repairs later).
• provide information on those "high cost" items which are an unavoidable consequence of being an owner.
• familiarize you with the technical trades: plumbing, carpentry, heating, and electric; and to explain these important topics in a layman's language.
• provide written summaries and checklists which will make the job of project inspection easier and more efficient.
• help you to enjoy and appreciate your home through a better understanding of how houses work and the care they will need.

I. Home Inspection: The Initial Site Review.

What to Look For When Inspecting a Home

• Is all the wood in the house above the level of the soil?
• Does water drain away from the house?
• Does the crawlspace have adequate clearance and ventilation?
• Are there signs of dampness in the basement?
• Are earth-filled porches and other structures separated from the house?
• Is the roof overhang sufficient (18 to 30 inches)?
• Has caulking around doors, windows and joints been maintained?
• Are gutters and downspouts intact?
• Is attic ventilated?
• Is roof decking completely covered, especially at the edge?
• Does the roof sag, indicating rafter decay?
• Is paint peeling or blistering?
• Are decorative and other items attached to the house likely to admit or trap moisture?
• Is plumbing, including drains, free of leaks?
• Do doors or windows stick? Are frames decayed?
• Is caulking around tubs, sinks, and showers intact?
• Are floors level?  Do areas feel spongy when walked on?
• Do ceilings have water damage?
• If the house is in an area of high termite hazard, is there a structural pest control contract on it?  Does the contract include a guarantee?
• Was the soil under the house treated with insecticide during construction?
• Has the soil under additions been treated?
• Are any termite shelter tubes visible on foundations?  On pipes?
• Does the crawlspace contain stumps or wood debris?
• Are there small holes in unfinished wood in the crawlspace with powder under them?
• Will an expert inspect the house for termites or other structural pests before the sale?

II. Foundation.

Foundations provide for the adequate support of structured members and the loads placed upon them. Well constructed foundations prevent the entrance of water or excessive moisture. Serious defects that are detected should be itemized for repairs. (Example: All cracks should be effectively sealed.) A thorough inspection of the foundation includes inspecting for:

• cracks in the piers.
• cracks between the foundation and the frame.
• sagging floor joists.
• cracks in the basement walls.
• cracks in the brick veneer.
• crumbling mortar.
• no caulking at the joints.
• damp or leaking basement walls.
• white mineral deposits on the walls.
• finish grade sloped away from the foundation.
• adequate ventilation of the crawl space.

III. Roof.

A well constructed roof includes: 1) adequate structural support at the rafters, 2) sound roof decking, and 3) a well sealed roof covering. Asphalt shingles are the most common roof covering and are made in a variety of weights and thickness or the most obvious deterioration of asphalt shingles is the loss of surface granules. The shingles may also become quite brittle. More important is the wear that occurs in the narrow groves between the tabs or sections of the shingle, or between two consecutive shingles in a row. This wear may extend completely through to the roof boards or decking without being apparent from a visual inspection. If the roof is actually leaking, it should be obvious from water damage inside the house. A thorough inspection includes looking for water stains on the ceilings around the perimeter of the house and at wall junctions in each room. Extensive water damage will cause dry wall or ceiling tiles to sag. An inspection in the attic may also reveal water stains on the rafters. (Even small leaks may eventually cause damage.) Water damage inside the house is not always attributable to roofing leaks. Leaks may also be caused by faulty flashing. An inspection includes an examination for the presence of:

• sagging ridge line.
• buckled or warped roof decking.
• water stains on rafters.
• signs of leakage around the chimneys.
• cracked or split shingles.
• shingles covered with tar and/or fungus.
• flashing corroded or absent.
• gutters and down spouts corroded.
• water stains on interior ceilings and walls.

IV. Floor Framing.

An inspection of floor framing includes an examination of the condition of and proper sizing of floor joists, band joists, girders, plates, and sub-flooring. Floors should never significantly move under normal live load conditions, i.e., walking. Individual structural members that are deteriorated or missing should be replaced. Notice that the load bearing walls rest directly over the foundation footings and that rooms inside the house frame are divided by partition walls. Inspection of floor framing includes an examination for the presence of :

• decay at girders, joists, etc.
• sagging girders.
• warped or disconnected sub floor.
• floors not level.
• excessive bounce or spring floors.
• incorrect supplemental floor supports.
• shaky stairways.
• doors which will not properly close because of uneven frames.

V. Exterior Wall Framing.

Exterior walls provide for the adequate support of all live and dead loads that are placed upon them (such as roof rafters, etc.). Well constructed wall framing provides a support for the exterior veneer, trim, windows and doors. The inspection includes an examination for:

• doors that are out of line.
• windows that bind or do not open.
• decay at the foundation sill plate.
• decay at the entrance steps.
• walls that are buckled or warped.
• Studs are the vertical (upright) posts of the wall..
• Cripple studs are any studs shorter than the full height of the wall. There are cripple studs above and below a window or door opening.
• The top plate caps or covers the top of the studs to hold them straight.
• The double top plate overlaps the top and corners of the frame to join the walls together.
• The corner post is an extra stud or a spacer board used to join the outside studs of intersecting walls.
• A rough sill is the base for framing a window. The rough sill is supported by cripple studs.
• A header is the cap or cover of a window or door frame. The header is supported by trimmer studs.
• Trimmer studs are extra studs added to frame a window or door. Trimmer studs support the header and provide a surface for installing window and door casing members.
• Sheathing is s plywood or gypsum covering nailed to the studs to enclose the wall. Sheathing provides a surface for insulation and installing utilities.

VI. Siding and Trim.

All exterior siding and trim should be examined for durability of material and proper installation. When more than one siding covers the exterior wall frame, a "probe" under the siding is required to test the integrity of the wood frame structure. An inspection of the siding and trim includes an examination for the presence of:

• decayed fascia or trim.
• water stains and/or decay on the soffit.
• excessive gaps between lap siding.
• warped or split siding and trim.
• asphalt shingle or cedar shake siding which is worn and broken.

VII. Decay and Insects.

All floor framing (including stairs, ceilings and all other load bearing structured members) should be inspected for decay or any other hazard that would indicate a potential for the building and/or individual members of the building to fail or collapse. An inspection check list includes an examination for the presence of:

• spongy and flaky wood members.
• mildew and fungus growth.
• termite tracks that are visible on the wood framing.
• bore holes visible in the wood framing.

VIII. Chimney and Fireplaces.

Fireplaces, chimneys and other venting should be structurally safe, smoke-tight and capable of withstanding heat as well as provideing adequate discharge of flue gases. Chimneys which are defective or deteriorated or which may constitute a fire hazard should be properly closed with masonry. Most problems with chimneys are caused by deteriorated mortar and soot build up. An inspection must include checking the integrity of the flashing, i.e., the metal strips around the base of the chimney that seal the joints between the masonry and the roof. "Black gunk" on the flashing is a sign that a tar product has been used to correct a leakage problem that may still be unsolved. Also inspect to see if there is a damper at the firebox and that it properly operates and seals. Look for signs of smoke on the mantle piece, a sign of poor draft. If the chimney passes through an attic, an inspection of the chimney may reveal signs of deteriorated mortar joints or signs of charred wood. As a precaution, framing should clear the masonry by two inches for interior chimneys. An inspection check list includes an examination for the presence of:

• cracks or crumbly mortar.
• clogged or impaired flue liners.
• a chimney that fails to draw properly.

IX. Insulation and Moisture Controls.

An adequate level of insulation will benefit a house in many ways. Insulation slows down the rate of heat conduction, keeping heat in living areas for longer periods of time. As a result, less heat is required in winter, and air conditioners usually operate for shorter periods in summer without sacrificing comfort. Adequate insulation may also affect the efficiency of heat/cool systems allowing for unit "down-sizing." For instance, smaller more efficient units may be possible at a savings to the homeowner. Additionally, insulation is usually fire resistant and may serve as a deterrent to flame spread. There are several types of insulation permitted by code: batts and blankets; loose-fill; and rigid board.

Dampness in the crawl space area creates decay and deterioration of framing members. Proper foundation venting and placement of a vapor barrier prevent excessive moisture build-up. A vapor barrier is a specially treated plastic sheet that prevents condensation of water vapors, which are a natural occurrence from the earth, from entering the crawl space. Inspection includes:

• vapor barrier at the crawl space.
• operable foundation vents, properly sized.
• floor insulation.
• attic insulation.

X. Windows and Doors.

Windows and doors, including their hardware, should be inspected for proper installation and operation. Windows should not allow air or water infiltrate into the house, including the window's sash or casings. Exterior doors must have safe locks and peep holes. All exterior doors should be substantially weather-tight. Defective glass or locking mechanisms will require replacement. Doors to bathrooms and bedrooms must have passage locks to provide privacy. An inspection check list includes:

• windows that are loose fitting and warped.
• window caulking that is dried and broken.
• glazing putty that is missing or broken.
• drafts around windows.
• window counterweights that are broken.
• window sizes that are insufficient to meet minimum code.
• decay around sash and sills.
• doors that are warped or binding.
• door thresholds that are decayed.
• door trim that is warped or decayed.
• window/door weather stripping that is deteriorated.

XI. Mechanical and Plumbing Systems.

Heating equipment is inspected for faulty operation and/or hazards. Duct work is inspected for soundness and durability. Any material that contains asbestoes that is wrapped around vent pipes should be removed or covered with a high temperature tape or paint. The age of the system is important, even if the furnace and its means of distribution seem to be sound. Older heating systems eat up a lot of fuel. An inspector who is evaluating a house with an older heating plant for rehabilitation purposes might do well to price a new furnace (and hot water heater) that contain energy saving improvements.

Plumbing systems are inspected for required plumbing fixtures that are in good working condition and properly connected to approved water and sewer systems. A thorough inspection includes confirming that supply and waste lines are sound, i.e. free from defects, leaks, and obstructions. Required fixtures include a kitchen sink, a toilet, a bath sink, shower or tub, and a water heater. In older houses the presence of old lead soldered pipes can present a major problem. Most often, an inspector will estimate a new supply system as part of the rehabilitative process. Supply difficulties usually occur between the house and city water main (located at the street) where old underground lines can be damaged by sediment or tree roots. An inspection should include examining for presence of:

• a heating system that is deteriorated.
• lack of air conditioning.
• metal duct with asbestos tape.
• inadequate hot water supply.
• deteriorated plumbing fixtures.

Forced-air Systems

These systems use air as the medium to carry heat throughout the home. The most common type uses a central heater fired by gas, oil or electricity to heat the air which is blown by a central fan through ducts under the floors or in the ceilings and walls of each room. Most systems of this type need to be installed when the house is built, but modifications can upgrade this system. Insulating all the exposed duct work, if not already done, can save a great deal of energy and money.

Balancing a forced-air system is accomplished by manipulating the registers and dampers on each branch line to ensure that the heat is equal in all the rooms.

XII. Electrical System.

An inspection of the electrical system includes a search for any potential hazards. Hazards include broken wiring, non-insulated wiring, frayed wiring, missing cover plates on junction boxes, receptacles and/or switches. Frequently blown fuses are evidence of overloaded circuits. If you find only fuses in the electrical panel this is an indication that the system is very old. A panel that has both fuses and breakers is newest and preferred. Every house considered for rehabilitation should have at least 100 ampere service coming into the panel. This would be adequate enough to serve a house of moderate size, especially a house with window air conditioning units, microwave, etc. An inspection should include an examination for the presence of:

• an adequate amperage service.
• frayed or rotten wiring.
• an adequate number of outlets.
• missing light fixture covers.
• protective covers on switches and outlets.
• lights that dim or flicker.
• major appliance outlets.
• a labeled panel box.

How You Get Electricity

Electricity enters the home through wires hung from a power pole or buried underground. Most homes are served by three wires: two "hot" wires of 120 volts each and one "neutral" wire that provides a return path to complete the electrical circuit. Such a system has 120 volts for normal household needs and the capability of 240 volts for heavy-duty appliances. Older homes that have two wires (one hot and one neutral) have only a 120-volt capability. At the head of the electrical system is the meter. It is connected to the hot wires and measures incoming electricity. Next is the main disconnect, which allows you to turn off the entire electrical system. It might be a pull-down lever, a pull-out fuse block, or a large circuit breaker; it is located in a separate box by the meter or in the service panel. Local codes specify the location so that emergency crews can find it quickly.

XIII. Paint and Wall Covering.

All interior and exterior surfaces should be inspected to assure that materials are properly protected. This is most often accomplished with an approved paint product. Lead based paint should be identified as a potential hazard especially in older homes with a child under seven years of age. All interior walls and ceilings should be properly attached and without any holes or cracks. Surfaces should be appropriately painted and maintained in an acceptable condition. Inspection check list includes:

• exterior paint that is chipped or blistered.
• exterior paint that is covered with fungus.
• multiple layers of paint present.
• interior paint that is blistered.
• interior trim paint that is chipped.
• wallpaper that is blistered or peeling.
• dry wall that is buckled or unsound.

Painting a Room

Move or cover everything you don't want painted.

If the ceiling, walls, and the trim are greasy, wash them with TSP or detergent. TSP must be rinsed, but some detergents don't require rinsing.

Remove switch plates and outlet covers. Mask the switches and receptacles with tape.

Patch any cracks or holes. Use sandable spackling compound except for small cracks that open seasonally. Paint these with an electrometric primer. You can also use vinyl spackling compound, but wipe it down with a sponge before it dries, because it can't be sanded.

Caulk any gaps along the baseboards or trim with paintable caulk. Wipe away excess caulk with a sponge or wet finger.

Prime sealed areas before painting. If there are large patches of  sealer or areas of new wall, prime the entire surface. Paint around doors and windows and in corners. The painted area should be 2 to 3 inches wide.

Roll on paint with a damp roller. Paint trim with an angle brush. If you paint carefully, it won't be necessary to mask the walls. If you do mask, let the paint on the walls dry thoroughly first.

Paint wood frame windows, starting next to the glass and working outward. The paint should just touch the glass to seal the edge of the wood. Paint around the glass, then the rest of the sash, then the jambs, then the casing and finally the sill and apron.

Paint the panels in a panel door first, then the trim. The door can be painted in place or taken down. If you are using a sprayer, remove the door hardware and stuff the openings with paper towels.

Common Mistakes

• Not doing all the preparation before starting to paint.
• Not using a primer where it's needed.
• Buying low-quality paint or tools.
• Applying thin coats of paint and trying to cover too much area. Two thick coats will wear better than three thin ones.
• Ignoring instructions on the paint label (thinning to much, trying to paint when it is too hot or too cold.)
• Painting in the wrong sequence.
• Using the wrong type of brushes for the paint base. Use natural bristle brushes with oils and alkyds, and polyester or nylon for latex paint.

XIV. Interior Floor Covering.

Finished floors should be in good condition and appropriate to the use of the space. For instance, floors in kitchens and bathrooms should be of a durable, waterproof and non-absorbent material. Inspection items include an examination for:

• wood floors that are buckled or warped.
• gaps in or between flooring product.
• resilient tile that is cracked or broken.
• vinyl sheet flooring that is worn or torn.
• flooring that is spongy or decayed.
• carpet that is faded or mildewed.
• carpet pad which is flat, crumbly or otherwise decayed.

Choosing a Floor Covering

Because the floor is such an important part of the way a room looks, you will want to select new flooring carefully. Your tastes may change, so the simpler the floor treatment, the more flexibility you will have in the design and use of the room over time. It is much easier and less expensive to change the color of your walls or to introduce new furnishings than it is to install a new floor.

As a general guide, good design is simple design - although simplicity is not always easy to achieve. It requires a high level of restraint, thoughtfulness in planning and care in execution. It you do opt for a dramatic and exciting floor, then be bold. Let it be the keynote for the rest of the decor. More often, however, floors play a background role, pulling the other elements of the room together.

The most common types of floor covering are wood strip, wood block, resilient tile, resilient sheet, ceramic tile and carpet. Wood is a traditional favorite that can add quality, permanence, and livability to any room. The grain gives a floor texture. Wood strip floors, especially wide planking, create a strong linear pattern. Wood block and parquet floors have a dynamic pattern.

Resilient Tile and Sheet Flooring. This type of covering comes in a wide range of colors and patterns, making it appropriate for any room. Resilient flooring is durable, comfortable and easy to maintain. Sheet materials come in room size widths that create broad expanses of color and pattern.

Ceramic Tile. Tile and other masonry materials, such as brick and stone, create a feeling of performance and substance. The effect can be either rustic or formal. Because of the grout lines, they create a strong pattern. Choose a color and width for the grout lines to accentuate or subdue this pattern.

Carpet. Wall-to-wall carpeting or area rugs offer the advantages of softness, warmth, comfort and a wide choice of colors. Carpet is suitable for open expanses or intimate spaces, and can be used in any room. It needs to be maintained, and is not as permanent as other floor materials.

XV. Cabinets.

Counter work space should be appropriate for the kitchen area. The condition of shelving in wall and base cabinets should be in good sound working order, including shelving under the sinks. All doors, drawers, and hardware should operate properly. Inspection items include:

• cabinet doors that are split or uneven.
• cabinet finish that is chipped or scaled.
• cabinet trim that is damaged or warped.
• hardware that is missing or damaged.
• cabinet drawers that are not operable.
• counter tops that are decayed or delaminated.

Quality

Cabinets come in three ranges of quality - low, medium and high  - with prices to match.

Cabinets are expensive and usually last for years, so take your time when making a selection. Talk to dealers, cabinetmakers, installers and friends who have installed cabinets.

• Particleboard was once a sign of low quality, but no longer. Even the highest quality cabinets may use particleboard. Particleboard itself varies in quality; generally, the thicker, denser and heavier the materials, the more durable the construction. The weight can be a disadvantage during shipping and installation; plywood offers the same strength with less weight.
• Solid wood refers to plywood, natural wood boards and particleboard covered with veneer. Typically, particleboard in medium-to-high quality cabinets is covered with wood veneer on the outside and a vinyl or mealtime coating on the inside. Vinyl is usually used as an outside coating only on low quality cabinets.
• Manufacturers of high quality cabinets spend significant amounts of time checking cabinet doors and panels for consistency of stain color and grain appearance. The rejects are sometimes sold and may appear on low quality cabinets.
• In general, the finish is thicker on high quality cabinets. A low quality finish may have visible sanding marks, feel rough, or simply not look deep or rich. Low quality finishes are also likely to wear more quickly.
• High quality cabinets usually offer more styles and options. Operation of doors and drawers is smoother. Joints are tight, fasteners don't poke through the box and there is no glue visible at joints.
• To test the fit of drawers, pull them out a few inches and try to move them from side to side. Some movement is likely, but high quality drawers will move less. Side-to-side movement is especially significant on large drawers.
• To test drawer slides, pull the drawer out all the way and push downward on it. The drawer slide shouldn't bow or deform. Two side slides are generally better than a single center slide.
• Hinges and catches should feel secure. The best type of hinges are self-closing and a sturdy door catch releases the door smoothly and easily when you pull on it.

XVI. Driveways.

If the driveway is made of concrete, inspect its condition or cracks or erosion. If it is badly cracked or eroded, some sections may have to be repaired, but, if it is badly deteriorated, the whole driveway is going to have to be replaced. Depending upon the size, a replacement could cost thousands of dollars. If the driveway is composed of asphalt blacktop and it is only slightly cracked, it can be repaired easily by the homeowner. Patching material is available in local hardware stores for quick and inexpensive repairs of this type. To keep the blacktop in good condition, it should be coated annually with a sealer, which also is available at most hardware stores. However, if the blacktop is badly damaged, a new driveway may have to be installed. Again, depending upon the size of the driveway, this could be a costly project for the homeowner.

XVII. Identifying and Preventing Hazards.

There are many potential hazards in a house besides the obvious ones. Health hazards that may be present in some building materials include lead and asbestos. Gases such as radon and formaldehyde may also be a threat. Another household hazard may be a rodent problem. Not every homeowner is going to be faced with all of these health hazards. However, every homeowner should be made aware of them should one happen to be discovered. The homeowner should know where the problem might exist, what causes it, what type of health hazards are involved with it, and how to eliminate it safely from the house.

Lead-based paints. In most homes constructed prior to 1968 walls, ceilings, and interior trim moldings were coated with lead-based paints. Attempts to remove this paint such as sanding it or burning it off with a torch only expose the entire family to lead's toxic effects. Both low and high concentrations of lead are harmful. Infants, children and fetuses are even more susceptible to its dangers. Exposure to lead affect their physical and mental development. Children's I.Q. levels are lowered as a result of lead exposure, their attention spans are shortened, and they may exhibit behavioral problems. The harmful effects of lead in the body include brain and kidney damage as well as damage to the nervous system and to the blood cells.

Asbestos fibers in insulation. Until the early 1970s, asbestos was used in the manufacture of many building materials for residential and commercial construction. Some of the materials used which may contain asbestos include manufactured siding, floor tiles, ceiling tiles, pipe insulation, and furnace / boiler insulation. Even wood fillers and other patching compounds contained asbestos.

Radon gas. Radon gas is an odorless, invisible, radioactive gas that is produced by the breakdown of uranium and radium in rocks and soils. The known health hazard associated with exposure to radon is an increased risk of developing lung cancer.

Formaldehyde in building materials. As was the case with asbestos, formaldehyde has been used extensively in the manufacture of many building materials. Primarily, it was used in the manufacture of glues and adhesives and as a preservative in some coating products.

Rodents. Mice and other rodents carry many diseases, and even dead rodents present a potential health hazard in the home. Rodents that are infected with disease-carrying ticks, fleas, and mites can cause serious illness in humans such as Rocky Mountain spotted fever, Colorado tick fever, and Lyme disease, among others. Rodents also consume and contaminate stored foods.

How To Calculate Average Wattage Costs

1. First, multiply the number of watts by the number of hours.

2. Divide this number by 1,000. This gives you the kilowatts per day.

3. Multiply this number by the number of days, giving you the kilowatts per month.

4. Multiply this number by the cost per kilowatt hour. 7.5 cents is the average current residential rate. This figure gives you the approximate cost for the appliance or light fixture in question.

EXAMPLE: 60 WATT LIGHT BULB

1. 60 (Watt light bulb X 10 (Hours of us = 600)
2. 600 (Hours of wattage use divided by 1000 = 0.6 (Kilowatts per day).
3. .6 Kilowatts X 30 (days per month = 18 Kilowatts per month).

 18 Kilowatts  per month X .075 (average residential rate per Kilowatt hour) =$1.35 (cost to operate 60 watt light bulb per month.

Watching the Costs of Your Current

As the costs of producing energy continue to soar, the efficient use of electricity has become every homeowner's concern. These costs, after all, turn up in your utility bill.  The information in this chart can help you decide where it may be possible to cut down on current usage- and when it is not worth worrying about. 

The chart lists the approximate kilowatt-hours consumed in a year under normal conditions by a variety of commonly used electrical appliances. A quick recovery water heater uses the most- nearly 5,000 kwh annually. An electric  toothbrush the least- a meager 0.5.

To find the approximate cost to you of operating any of these appliances, multiply the appliances kilowatt-hour figure by the average price you pay for a kilowatt-hour as determined by the method described earlier. Then focus your personal electricity conservation program on those appliances you own that use the most energy.  Giving up an electric clock or shaver would hardly put a dent in your bill. But you could make a real savings by turning off a color television when you're not watching it or running a dishwasher only once a day at full capacity.  It also pays to consider the energy requirements of appliances you plan to buy.  Some manufacturer's place a higher priority than others on energy efficiency. Thus, two refrigerators with the same features may vary significantly in operating costs.  Check the wattage rating when choosing an appliance to estimate and compare annual operating costs.